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THE
SPIDER CAVE
By: Steve Boehne
I first explored the mines of the Calico Mountains
in 1961, when my parents, Jerry and Carole took us four kids to the restored
ghost town of Calico outside of Barstow. The town is similar to the ghost
town of Knott’s Berry Farm and a history of the area is presented
well. The Calico Mountains are so named because of their color hues of
purple, orange, yellow and brown that are visible especially at sundown.
These color tints are caused by the rich mineral deposits in the soil.
The town was built because of the discovery of silver in the 1800’s.
Many of the thousands of men who dug the miles of mine tunnels found up
the canyons and peaks surrounding the town are buried in a real “Boot
Hill” graveyard.
After the tour of the town, the family decided to explore the area. We
drove about a mile over to the next canyon and followed the dirt road
into it. As the canyon narrowed and the walls became steeper, evidence
of old mine shafts appeared everywhere. You could see dotted high up on
the ridges hundreds of open mine shafts. Every little crevasse with promise
of silver ore has been excavated. In the 1960’s the dirt road up
the canyon was maintained because there was still active mining going
on. By the mid 70’s all the mines had been abandoned and the road
was deteriorating badly. Now, it is impassable by car.
After Barrie and I were married in 1971, we would often go out to Calico
in the winter to take a break from surfing. We’d go alone or bring
friends along to explore the mines up in the canyons surrounding the old
ghost town. One Friday night, just the two of us drove my van out to our
favorite spot deep in the canyon and up a little side canyon. In the dark
desert night the headlights threw spooky shadows on the canyon walls.
It is very difficult to tell where you are because you cannot see the
familiar daytime landmarks. Our little side canyon would be nearly invisible
at night if you didn’t already know exactly where it was. In our
favorite camping spot, the dark lava walls are forty feet high, very narrow
and seem to cover over the van like parking under big shade trees. The
desert sun can be very hot in the after noon, even in the winter. We made
camp, relaxed a while, and then went to bed.
About 1 am. We heard a great roar coming up the main canyon. It sounded
like a division of army tanks. After some time, the roar subsided, but
was replaced by even louder music, yelling and partying. We crawled out
of our sleeping bags and hiked down our little canyon to see what was
going on. Carefully looking around the opening, we saw around fifty to
sixty Harley choppers parked in the main canyon. Gruff looking guys and
girls dressed in dirty Levis, boots and “moto-garb” were partying
big time around a huge fire. I considered moving my van to another location,
but I couldn’t get further up our little canyon and I would have
to drive past them to leave. We decided to just go back to bed since they
couldn’t see us anyway. The night was long and loud. It was very
late when the noise subsided enough to let us sleep.
The next morning, we ate breakfast and decided to go ahead with our plans
to explore some mines. The van wasn’t visible from the main canyon,
so it probably would not be noticed. The winter air was cold and I wore
a heavy jacket. Considering our neighbor campers, I slipped my 38 special
revolver into my jacket pocket. We hiked further up our canyon, which
led us over a ridge and into another major canyon with a whole different
set of mine shafts to explore.
We found a shaft that was nearly impossible to enter because someone had
attempted to seal it up with dynamite, but by sliding on our bellies through
a nearly invisible, small opening at the top of the cave-in we got in
to the shaft. Because it had been “sealed up” no one had been
in there for years. There were ore car tracks on the floor and framing
for support and steel mining implements. As we explored, we found that
the whole mountain was a honeycomb of tunnels, with multiple levels and
tunnels leading in all directions.
There were large “glory holes” where the vein spread out wide.
Often the tunnels followed the silver vanes up or down at steep angles.
There is a very unusual spot (where we still go even to this day) where
the tributary tunnel leads down at a steep angle, curves around to the
left, passes under itself and comes to a dead end. At the end, a vertical
shaft about 8 ft. across goes straight down for over 100 ft. There is
a large 12” x 12” beam laid across the top of this vertical
shaft, probably a support for an ore bucket lift. There was (it is now
deteriorated) a very narrow, 12” wide wooden ladder leading all
the way down to the floor of the vertical shaft. I always carried a few
coils of climbing rope, so I tied a length to the beam and threw it down
into the darkness. The ladder was nearly one hundred years old, worn and
rotten with many missing or broken rungs. We went down one at a time while
keeping a careful grip on our rope incase the ladder failed. We both wore
miner style lights that strap around your head with a headband. Air vent
shafts that clear the dust away serve the main tunnels, but as you drop
deeper and deeper, the air becomes stagnant and a stifling dust cloud
floats up from the movement of your feet. At the bottom, there was a very
small passage, about 24” wide and 5’ high curving off in another
direction. We followed it for about 40 yards to where it opened up into
a small room about the size of a bedroom. In the center was another vertical
shaft about 35’ deep. It also had a heavy beam laid across the top,
but there was no ladder. I wanted to see what was down there, so I tied
my 3⁄4” thick length of rope to the beam and started down.
Barrie stayed at the top and I could see her light beam shinning down
on me while I slid down the rope. When I got to the bottom, she looked
so far away and it gave me a little pang of apprehension about climbing
all the way back up the rope. The bottom of the pit was just that; nothing.
There were a few baseball size rocks lying around, but essentially, it
was pretty smooth. It looked like the vein “played out” and
the shaft was abandoned. The feeling at the bottom of the pit was claustrophobic.
The air was stagnant and the powder dust floated in the air like a lethal
cloud. The oppressive depth made me wonder how terrifying it would be
to be trapped down there in absolute silence and blackness. What if the
rope came loose? With a creepy feeling in my tailbone, I started climbing
back up the rope. Barrie was kinda joking: “come on, you can make
it only 20 more feet”. That only added to that creepy feeling I
had like some child hood “darkness monster” was coming up
from the depths to get me. I made it to the top with ease; we went single
file back through the narrow tunnel as the thick dust particles floated
in our light beams. The rickety, old ladder rose up out of sight and we
climbed back up keeping half our weight on the climbing rope.
We had been gone from camp for about 3 hours, but we decided to eat a
snack and continue following the main shaft. It takes quite a while to
explore these mines because each tributary shaft “must” be
explored, plus there are multiple ore shoots that lead up at a steep angle
to shafts at higher levels. It is truly like an anthill. We worked our
way deeper and deeper into the center of the mountain until we reached
a “bottomless” vertical shaft that blocked the passage. By
shining our lights up and down, I could see multiple shafts above us and
below us that also intersected this vertical shaft. Apparently, this was
an elevator shaft that carried the miners to the different levels. The
cables and elevator platform had been removed decades ago. We lit a paper
towel on fire with a match and dropped it down over the edge. It fell
like a shooting star down, down into the darkness until it was just too
far away to see any longer.
Since this elevator shaft was the same width as our tunnel, you would
assume that this was the end of our forward progress, except for one thing:
There was a big 12” x 12” beam spanning the ten-foot elevator
shaft. Apparently, someone had laid it across in order to bridge the chasm.
The beam was about 15” from the wall, so you could brace against
the wall as you walked across. I started the walk across; the beam looked
only 2” wide. The utter blackness and unimaginable depth beneath
me was silent like a quiet monster waiting for me to fall into its’
open jaws. It is strange because you realize that this is about the same
as walking the plank off the top of the Empire State building, but since
you can’t see anything but blackness beneath you, your body doesn’t
go into that wobbly kneed, frozen state of panic where you can’t
move a muscle. I made it! Barrie tied the other end of the climbing rope
that I brought across the beam under her arms and I took up the slack
as she came across. We continued onward, but were not looking forward
to recrossing that beam.
There were many more tributary shafts and ore shoots to explore, but as
we headed deeper, we had basically been heading in a direction back towards
our camp since we actually started on the other side of the mountain.
At first we heard talking, then suddenly a light appeared as people came
around a corner only a few yards away. A lump came to my throat as I realized
that I was alone in a cave with my wife, face to face with six big bikers.
Instinctively, my hand slid slowly into my coat pocket and wrapped around
my 38 revolver, but this move reminded me of some old movie I had seen
where when the good guy pulled out his gun when facing multiple bad guys,
the bad guys each pulled out even meaner, nastier looking weapons all
making horrendous clanking and cocking noises. It didn’t seem appropriate
to pull the gun trick, but I really think that having my hand on that
38 allowed me to keep cool and not act like prey running from a snarling
dog.
We were all surprised to see each other and all asked where the other
had come from. They seemed friendly enough and I didn’t get a sense
that their eyes were bearing down on Barrie excessively. We told them
about the elevator shaft that we had passed, and they told us that the
tunnel must pass entirely through the mountain since they came in from
an opening on the side where they had camped. I said that I didn’t
really want to cross the elevator shaft again and that we were going to
just go forward and out the way they came in. I was anxious to leave their
company, but they insisted on escorting us to the entrance. As we walked
together I told them how we heard them come up the canyon the previous
night. They said that they had been kicked out of Barstow the night before
by the sheriff and headed up the canyon where they could party in peace.
I felt relieved to step into the light of day. We all headed back down
the main canyon towards our perspective camps. As we came around the last
corner, they were shocked to see their camp deserted with all the Harley’s
gone except their own. A note was left on one of their bikes saying that
the sheriff had come again and run them out of the canyon. The speed patrol
plane that cruises the freeway had spotted them. They were headed off
to Needles and would see the spelunkers at their other campsite on the
Colorado river. The guys kick started their bikes each with a loud gunny
roar and they headed on out towards the valley floor and freeway to Needles.
As we got back to camp, late afternoon was just easing in. We set up our
chairs and started cocktail hour. We watched the pastel hues of color
deepen on the mountains and we just relaxed until dinner. We were both
pretty exhausted after the stresses of the day, so we hit the sack pretty
early. Sleep came fitfully as the memories of the day were repeated in
my mind. Finally as I eased into sleep, I seamlessly drifted into a dream
that seemed oh so real: Barrie and I were back in the mine. We had climbed
down the ladder. I remembered the exact location of each broken rung;
the visions of dust in light beams and the narrow passage to the “room
of doom” were just the same. I tied the 3⁄4” rope on
the beam and went down the shaft.
When I got to the bottom, I scanned back and forth with the beam and came
across something strange. Over against the far wall there appeared to
be small ladders, each leading about 14” up to a small ledge cut
into the wall where another ladder was propped and led up to the next
ledge. The series of ladders reached perhaps 7 ft. above the shaft the
floor. I traced my beam further along the floor and wall where I spotted
what was unmistakably miniature human bones: little femurs, tibias and
grape sized human skulls were all piled up next to a dark hole in the
wall. It quickly struck me that little people had been trapped in this
mine and were trying to climb out by building ladders. Perhaps they were
hiding in that dark hole. Maybe I could help them. I got down on my hands
and knees so I could shine my light into the hole and see if they were
in there. As I brought my face close to the opening, I saw two glowing
red spheres. They were rocking slowly back and forth. Suddenly, they were
rushing towards me and I pulled away just as the biggest, hairiest, ugliest,
red-eyed tarantula spider lunged for my face. I must have leaped 4 ft.
into the air, but as I came back down, I went into attack mode and aimed
my heavy hiking boot for the hairy beast. But the beast didn’t side
step; instead it met my challenge full boar and leaped at me again, landing
on my leg about mid thigh. I immediately felt the mandibles sink into
my flesh and the stinging injection of poison. Instinctively, I batted
at the beast with my hand and knocked it to the floor. I spun and leaped
for my rope. In a dead sweat panic, I pulled my way up, but each foot
gained seemed in slow motion. Barrie was looking down from the top and
was shrieking my name with terror in her voice. I was nearly 8 ft. from
the floor so I risked a look back down the rope. To my horror, the beast
was following me up the rope, red eyes ablaze and mandibles pinching in
and out. I turned back to the rope with renewed panic, but found my grip
more difficult. The rope was growing. It appeared nearly 6” in diameter.
I got up a few more feet, but the rope was growing exponentially fatter.
As weakness set in from the poison, I felt my head fall back as my arms
could no longer reach around the four foot diameter rope. I was falling
into the jaws of the beast!
I burst into consciousness; I sat up in the darkness, heart pounding and
gasping for breath. As I became aware of my surroundings, I realized that
I had just experienced the scariest dream of my life. Barrie awoke and
asked what was wrong. I breathlessly babbled on about the red eyed spider
that bit me and was shrinking me for dinner and that’s why I couldn’t
climb up the rope!! As I told her more about the dream, I began to realize
that the little bones were from other people who had ventured down the
shaft. The spider had shrunk them and was saving them for future dinners.
They must have been trying to escape by building ladders. Wow!
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